EVOLUTION OF SARTORIAL FASHION.

Eh, I couldn’t ask for a better picture for this post! The contrast between the Milan men and fashin coolazns on the foreground, perfect!

I wouldn’t have known if not for Bill Cunningham’s video for The New York Times, how much men’s fashion has changed. Since ‘sartorial fashion’ is limited to the classic shirt, suits, etc, and unlike women’s fashion, it differs, as sartorial fashion is not about whom you’re wearing or about the latest trend.

Like any revolution, the dictated men’s fashion of 1950s is forgotten-- Breaking the rules, not taking pant length into consideration accessorizing the staple wear and things like that.

Dinie.

RAD HOURANI SPRING 2010.

Head Down To MYKROMAG BLOG For Backstage & Rad Hourani Spring 2010 Show.

Images By Martin Jerez.
(Pictures should not be used w/o permission)

Dinie.

MINIMARKET, MALIBU IN SWEDEN.

Swedish Clothing Label minimarket is feeling the ripple effect of economy downfall. The Designers, which consist of sisters Sofie, Pernilla and Jennifer Elevestedt took a different approach of presentation-- Model street teams dressed in Minimarket roam the street of Stockholm.

“ Instead of doing a show this season, they dressed models in the new collection and had them show up at various venues and events during the week” according to the photog of StyleSightings.

Images by Stylesightings

FRANCESCO COMINELLI, VOGUE HOMMES.

Edit: I'm talking to Francesco right now via Facebook and i just said something stupid like " Greetings from Singapore " and i gave myself a good tight slap. I had his name on my status. I think he thinks that I'm stalking him now. I wonder how is it like to talk to Hamish bowles. What will i say to him? "Merry Christmas?." Ugh i Feel so stupid. I'm obviously not ready to talk to Maddona!

Photo: Jak & Jil

Dinie.

DIY: LANVIN BEADED TROMPE L’OEIL T-SHIRT.

Thanks Tommy Ton/Tom (can't remember what exactly) for the reminder. Hah. Months ago i started on a DIY project which was never completed. (like any other DIY stuff i do) That for you ladies and gentlemen, was an attempt of a low-end fashion 'couture'. I tried considering the organza as a base etc etc like the actual stuff but I'm impatient and have zero tolerance for beading!

Robbie got the real deal. With pants! I'm really jealous but, i don't understand why he layers with other stuff. Okay i get it. Personal style. Plus, he's a menswear fashion ediitor, no one would dare question them. Hah. Robbie, my closet is empty!

Dinie.

INTERVIEW, AYNOUK TAN.

Hey Aynouk, introduce yourself...

I'm a fashion editor in the broadest sense of the word. I mostly write newspapers as well as fashion magazines. The inspiration of my work comes from fashion as a social and cultural phenomena (all things modern, all things at the forefront of contemporary culture). I find it interesting how these cycles translate to clothes- how they reflect our 'zeitgeist'. I'm always on the look out for those artists, creatives, designers but also 'random people' (vagabonds, the baker on the corner, the secretary, farmer- anyone!) who are not afraid to experiment, provoke, stand out: those who question. These brave individuals are the mothers and fathers of the baby called innovation.  

How did you get involve in fashion, any formal education or simply street smarts?

I studied communication. As part of this study I did an internship at the Fashion Institute Arnhem: a prestigious masters for fashion designers. I met a great deal of talented designers (Oscar Suleyman- who now design for Viktor and Rolf, Bas Kosters, Klavers/ Van Engelen, Monique van Heist, Fransisco van Benthum etc.) which I modelled for every now and then. Some of them became close friends. I learned so much talking to them and watching them work. When I finished my education I was asked to write for Dutch fashion magazine BLVD. I developed my skills and interest in fashion from there. 

You kinda made your 'debut' in the webs via the 'infamous' portrait of Jak & Jil's The Watchmen, what are your response to those negative comments.

I must say I did not pay much attention to the image as well as the comments until now. I like Jak and Jil- I think it's very professional and one of the best of it's kind- but I must say it is not my favourite blog. Why? Tommy is all about aesthetics, the newest and the most beautiful- very Paris, Milan. I'm a great fan of humour though and the human side of fashion. why do people dress the way they do? What does it say about their character, their culture and the society we live in? I love pushing boundaries- please be as outrageous as you can be. make a statement, make people think, be bold, be provocative. Fashion contains so much more than just clothes- it tells a great deal about us humans. of course don't loose sight of aesthetics while doing it. but please, don't take yourself to seriously. Arrogance or pretentiousness does not flatter anybody.
Okido, I'm slightly rambling on. Ha. For the reasons names above- especially quote: 'make a statement, make people think, be bold, be provocative-' I loved the fact people reacted so passionate to the Watchmen. positive or negative. It's all about making people tick, making people think. If those 125 people who commented did that in any way I'm a happy cowboy. 

I enjoyed your work, Sandra on the first issue of MykroMag. What's next?

what's next? well. for now I'm really busy with a weekly column I'm writing for one of the biggest- and may I say most intellectual- newspapers of Holland. It is comparable to the International Herald Tribune. The title of the column is 'Fashion according to Aynouk Tan'. The newspaper came up with that! I dress myself every week in a different outfit and describe what I'm wearing. I tell the people something about the history of the clothing or what makes it so special and well, just to educate them in an accessible way about fashion. Next to that I am an editor for the Dutch L'Officiel, I contribute to Mykromag (because I like the product and I love Sonny), I organise fashion events in museums for instance etc. First and foremost though I live and breathe the art of fashion in my way, everyday. By dressing up, dressing down- reliving and recreating. Let's say I’m a professional fashion trooper. that must be taken with a big wink. of course.

Dinie.

STREET STYLE, NAFA VC GRAD SHOW.

Dinie.

DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET.

In every post which suggest a certain guidelines to follow, just remember, it is not an obligation but it is essential. However you might want to take this point into considerations because people, like The Sart for example, take their bespoke suit seriously and you never know when these tips might come in handy!

A classic double-breasted suit jackets (the ones that comes in suit;jacket and pants), the lapel should always be a peak lapel to compliment the shoulders.Without it, probably the suit will gives a boxy silhouette. As for buttons, the standard two rows of three buttons with one on the inside.If the size of lapels are smaller, chances are, you will have more buttons.

As suggested, a suit should at least be tailored at the waist but, with double-breasted suit, it should be tailored to the torso. It creates a prominent shoulders by cutting into the waistline.Highly recommended for man of small build.

Dinie.

STREET STYLE, COLLAGE CINELEISURE.

Images by Ridhwan Sesapar.

Dinie.

ESSENTIAL SHOES.

The classic Woman checks your shoe before anything else. We don't normally disclose any personal issues at first impression but do you know, a shoe reveals so much about one's dignity? If one is wearing flip-flop, my first impression would be that he's lazy. If a guy strut in heels, there's no doubt he's feminine right? I guess a shoe really makes the man.

Personally, i do not believe in investing large amount of money on something that i would rub against the floor. I've never prioritize a shoe ever. If it is true that with shoe, you get what you paid for, then no wonder none of my shoe last long.

A man must have at least two type of shoe to complete his wardrobe-- Dress Oxford and Monk Strap before loafers or lace-up. It is not an obligation but it is essential.
When building a foundation or choosing the basic, try not to over-do ourselves and stick to the basic. A conservative plain dress oxfords is preferred as compared to the kilties, balmorals or wingtip. Same rule applies; Formal occasions require laces. With simpler, less detailing on your feet, the easier to get away with a fashion faux pas.

Images by Scott.
Source: askmen.com

Dinie.

YELLOW CAB

We'll the pictures have no relation to this post whatsoever but i'd like to see it as an inspiration to move on or to daydream about what life should be.I standing beside a yellow cab with smoke from the drain gutter effect would be ideal right now.I'm feeling emotional just because the alignment of life curbs a little. I can't wait to resume life like how it should be, working towards that vision. Frustrated with the time i've wasted so far, i'd like to put myself in a trance. It's never a good thing because i'll end up regretting,weeping and wasting even more precious time. Why snivel if you're not gonna do anything no? Shouldn't i be telling myself that already?

So many things in my head; should i proceed with my final year, should i really pursue design, should i diet, should i sleep now, this or that. Sometimes being ambitious is hazardous. Especially when you have very little to start with. The continuous pressure and constant reminder is depressing.Something inside of me is wanting to burst and that i have something to proof but i can't.

It's true, kids grow up too fast.By the age of 3 i was already in some school.I'm 19 and I'm thinking about what I'm gonna do when I'm 27. When i was 13 i was thinking about the same shit too,i was supposed to watch cartoons. Okay, maybe not cartoons...er, Charmed? Okay whatever. I think i'll go change my bed sheets now.

Images By Scott

Dinie.

OMENTUM FATS.

With the growing belly attached to my body,i can't help but to notice it.No matter what Uncle Karl might say of her, looking like Beth Ditto was never a good thing unless, you want to wear stretchable Herve ledger dress your entire life. Being rich has its perks, you can afford to run on a treadmill while listening to Gaga or you can simply use one of those jacket as a dumbbell. Working out in the gym will be so fulfilling with those studded jacket.Antonin Trons are the new Lifting straps!

Anyway, Dr.Oz called and he wants to tell you this- the waist circumference of your belly (when sucked in) should not exceed one-half of your body length.An ideal for women is 32.5" or less and 37" for mens. So if you look in the mirror and realized that the pregnancy cardigan can't hide your permanent pregnancy, maybe it is time to start wearing a large.Extra large.

Omentem fat are part of your belly fat which is hidden under the muscle of our bellies. It can't be pinch, ( I say pinch, not grab) if you can pinch it,it is probably not. The function of the omentum is to provide nutrients for the belly throughtout the day and too much of visceral fat can cause poisoning to the liver.It overloads chemical up the veins which can cause diabetes. The fat also squeezes your kidney, increasing blood pressure which can cause heart problems.

This is guranteed to stripped an average of 15 years of your life.That is why i recommend you this. Best part,it really works!



Dinie.

Love Lockdown.

Ignorance sometimes alter our focus and contribute to all of life's misery. The sign is clear, put your margiela-ela-ela-eh-eh and boogie to the beat of GAGA. If god is a Deejay then my life is a symphony. CHEESAY.



Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to
What I had to do, had to run from you
Im in love with you, but the vibe is wrong
And that haunted me, all the way home
So ya never know, never never know
Never know enough, till its over love
Till we lose control, system overload
Screamin no no no, no no
Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to
See I wanna move, but cant escape from you
So I keep it low, keep a secret code
So everybody else dont have to know

So keep ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Keepin ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Now keep ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Keep ya love locked down, you lose

Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to
I cant keep my cool, so I keep it true
I got somethin to lose, so I gotta move
I cant keep myself, and still keep you too
So I keep in mind, when Im on my own
Somewhere far from home, in the danger zone
How many times did I take 'fore I finally got through
you lose, you lose
Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to
See I had to go, see I had to move
No more wastin time, you cant wait for life
we're just wastin time, where's the finish line

So keep ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Keepin ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Now keep ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Now keep ya love locked down, you lose

Im not lovin you, the way i wanted to
I've met no one new, I got no one new
Know I said Im through, but got love for you
But Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to
Gotta keep it goin, keep the lovin goin
Keep it on a roll, only god knows
If I be with you, baby im confused
You choose, you choose
Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to
Where I wanna go, I dont need you
I been down this road, too many times before
Im not lovin you, the way I wanted to

So keep ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Keepin ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Now keep ya love locked down, ya love locked down
Now Keep ya love locked down, you lose, you lose
You lose
You lose
You lose


Dinie.

MYKROMAG TEAM

CHRISTIAN WILLIAM VAN DAMME, CHARLES GUISLAIN, SONNY GROO, AYNOUK TAN AND JEAN PAUL PAULA

I wouldn't call them THE WATCHMEN. They are indeed the people to watch for. The next generation after Anna and Carine. I was contemplating on life's what not, at the same time talking to Sonny. I am very much aware of the hype of that photo but i didnt expect the respond to be so severe and negative.Why can't we see things in a positive light? I did, i was very inspired till i had a dream about it. I twittered saying i'm saving money to the big apple.To be precise,i wanna meet the team and then go broadway with Ridhwan.



Hah, that beside's the point but,if you really love fashion,why don't we use this picture to aim our success in the industry? These people are young and there are no limits to creativity and self-expression.Having to work with the team myself, i have nothing bad to say. I admire their sincerity in really expanding the industry to a bigger horizon.I'm not sucking up,really.In fact,this is the second time i blogged about it.It's not that i will get his Asian Children's Hair Purse anyway. That joke gave me a fright when he told me that and i was wondering if any of my hair was attached to that bag. No,it was goat hair.Remember Whatever good you put in the universe will come back to you,whatever bad will come back to you as well.

Image: JakJil

Dinie.

Break Of Pants: Full Break, Flare Cut.

Previously we discussed about the break of pants which refers to the in-seam of the crotch area,the part where your pants fall on your shoe,create a horizontal crease-like effect across the pant leg front.Or simply referring to it's length.







A bootleg or flare-cut should never be any of those two (medium and short break) but could be categorized as the full break. It gives the pant leg a deep crease along the front at the top of the shoe sole. This type of cut or break is for the taller man but not necessarily for the taller women.The proportion on a vertically-challenged women can be overcome with a higher waist,shoes with higher platform or both.



Unless you're Jean-paul, the men can't get away with wearing heels (yet). Through trial and error, the full-break pants seems odd on a men's leg. Shoes with elongated sole,pointy front and a little bit of platform at the back is much tasteful in overcoming the problem of looking sloppy. It creates an illusion that your leg can stretch for miles!

Images: Yvan, Scott, Altamira.
Dinie.